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For a long time, men were not considered a big target audience for fashion. Menswear was often thought to be a replenishment business, where the clothes were often purchased by the women in men’s lives — the wife, mother, or significant other. But a couple of years ago, things changed and menswear was officially outpacing women’s sales. All the headlines proclaimed that men were interested in fashion. But a key customer is still slow to participate — the Big & Tall man.

“Unfortunately, a lot of major brands and manufacturers don’t make Big & Tall apparel,” says Richard Patak, manager of Kaufman’s Big & Tall in Englewood, CO, a specialty store that’s been in business since 1958.“For the most part, my customers want the styles that a small guy wears, with a few exceptions. Some big guys don’t want skin tight jeans. And a lot want plainer shirts. But they’re really no different than the guy that wears a medium or large.”

Now consider that nearly three-quarters (74 percent) of U.S. men are considered to be overweight, with about 36 percent considered to be obese. That comes out to about 80 million men in total, with almost 37 million in the obese range. There is the potential for this customer to be courted.

The global menswear industry is valued at $402 billion, according to Fashion United. And Euromonitor International reports menswear grew by 4 percent in 2016, outpacing women’s for the second year in a row. Worldwide, the men’s market is expected to reach$40 billion in sales by 2019, according to Edited. This is all positive news for menswear. But there is potential for greater sales if the industry could attract more business from the Big & Tall customer.

“It’s getting better but it’s been a long road,” Patak says. “There have been several companies that try to break into Big & Tall, but it takes time to develop. Fit is very important and it has to relate to their size. That’s why regular companies find it hard to add B&T to their business, and why some new companies end up being like one- hit wonders.”

Only about one in three B&T male says they “love or enjoy” shopping, significantly less than the non-B&T customer (43 percent), according to the Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor? Survey.

This results in a noteworthy difference in apparel spending. The non-B&T customer spent $1,053 on clothes in the past year, but the Big & Tall man only averaged $784, about 26 percent less than his counterparts, according to theMonitor? research.

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