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Gua bao, traditional pork belly buns, are peculiar to Taiwan’s night markets and have always been rather niche. Nevertheless, given Beijing’s diverse range of cuisines, I’m still surprised I have never come across one of these suckers. It seems if you want a good one, you still have to head to Taipei. Or, in my case, New York, where they enjoy a healthy fan following.
The evidence of the bao’s staying power – a mobile Asian food cart, aptly named Fun Buns, nearly rolled into me the other day in Midtown, the braised pork snack topping their menu. I had to pass as, ironically, I was headed to Baohaus, a fixed joint in the East Village, which has offered gua bao since 2009.
It’s had some renewed interest of late, with its chef, Eddie Huang, starring in“Fresh Off the Boat,” a riotous Vice web series that takes on food and culture from an Asian American’s perspective.
The restaurant is a largely stand-up affair, though a few stools and benches may accommodate lucky early birds. However, there’s really no need to sit, as these buns are on the micro side and therefore easy to demolish in minutes.
I felt I had trespassed into some underground university hangout, with walls scrawled in graffiti and a general stickiness to the floors and seats. Baohaus resembles a dive bar that’s well past its last call and is in the process of shooing out sloppy patrons.
The open kitchen has a simple layout. A deep fryer, an oven to steam the buns, a few refrigerators, and a foul display of fried chicken intended for the Birdhaus Bao on the menu （avoid）. “All natural fried chicken brined 24 hours” was what the menu said. Two turns through the fryer just might make the pale flesh edible, but my stomach didn’t care to make room.
Instead I went for the awesomely named Chairman Bao, the signature dish. A small chunk of braised pork belly was sandwiched in steamed Chinese bread. The bun was stuffed with pickled vegetables, Taiwanese red sugar, crushed peanuts and cilantro.
Wedged into the palm of my hand, and made to be eaten tacostyle, the bun resembled a Venus fire trap from Super Mario. The bite was underwhelming – the flavors could have been bolder. Those pickled veggies could have been saltier and sourer. The pork belly itself was decent but could have been juicier and slightly more fatty. I mean, we don’t eat pork belly for its health properties, do we?
I preferred the Uncle Jesse Bao. Thinly sliced organic tofu was lightly fried and assembled with a sweet sauce, peanuts, and cilantro – a flavor close to a Pad Thai.
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